Te Araroa Pt. 4

Day 8

Day 8, 25 Nov 17

Pretty much by myself for the whole of today. At the Tramp Inn I wasted my time by reading, playing with fire, and walking around. Markus who tackled the forest with me yesterday went to find a doctor for his foot. Now I can't find him. I'm afraid I will have to do tomorrow's forest trail alone.

These people living in this settlement seem to be quite happy. It might be the ideal lifestyle according to some poets or writers. Peaceful, calm, close to nature, away from the din of modern living... But they spend their days doing the same things, tending to their farms, animals, sitting at home... Is it not the same as everyone else? Everyone lives their lives through a routine. So what is the purpose of life? To be the best at performing this routine? I do not know the answer. Wherever I look, there is no perfect lifestyle. And life is forever without meaning unless we add meaning to it ourselves. I think being on this great trail will add meaning to my short life and I am grateful for it. Let all the pain and misery I go through while I'm here be a part of this meaning too.

I better head into my tent before more of these little insects eat me alive.

Day 9

Day 9, 26 Nov 17

Writing this by a nice fire I built, I still can't perfect my firemaking -- got to work on that.

Today was a long day, I think I'm gonna take a day off tomorrow if there is good lodging in town. The forest was absolutely horrifying. The entire trail was made up of mud, and it was slippery and steep. I cannot count the number of times I fell down, sank into mud, or felt like cursing and swearing. But this is just how nature is, and you are the one in her domain. So respect it or leave. In fact I think the mud may be caused by human activity. Too much use of the trail killed off any roots holding the soil back. That's what I noticed because obviously the rest of the forest isn't made of mud so something must be wrong with only the small section the trail is on. If that is so then there is even less reason to complain.

I am really proud that I finally made it out. This was definitely not easy and hauling that much stuff on my back made it harder. What pulled me through was still my hope that every corner would be the end. I need to think more on this vs. "Have no hope and have no fear" (forgot where I read that from).

Day 10

Day 10, 27 Nov 17

Wow it's 10 days already. Almost a fortnight since I left.

It was a short day today. Hiked a bit to eat some overpriced food, then moved on to Apple Tree Dam Camp. I thjought I would take a break in the small town but it seemed quite crappy and overpriced there so no. I also want to follow these other guys, but they seem to want to be left alone. Can't blame these sticks.

Hopefully tomorrow will be easier than yesterday. It seems longer, but on th emap it is actually about the same length of forest (15km?) and the rest is forest road. Probably get really soaked feet though.

There is really nothing much to write about. It was such a short day. Maybe I'll come back later.

Ok I'm really lazy. Maybe I'll just sleep early today.

Oh the water here is yellow in color even after filtering. Doesn't taste like anything though.

Day 11

Day 11, 26 Nov 17

Actually writing this 2 days later. Missed writing this day because of "guests" in my hut and the day after because it was getting late after groceries and dinner.

Today marked the last of the Northland Forests. It started with a peaceful walk on a dirt road, followed by some fairly manageable forest trails, and a river wading exercise. After that was a brutal crawl along a narrow and precarious mud track along the river. Had so many near missses and fell down the hill once. Luckily a sapling caught me and saved my life. The tree however was not so fortunate and my weight uprooted it. After this the forest became friendlier as I climbed up a hill to the ridge. It would have been nice and easy bit I was really worn out by the mud track that this was still tiring for me. Furthermore it was raining all this while. How happy I was when I re-read the notes and discovered that the last 9km was road! I went on with high hopes and some level of doubt until I reached the road and a big green sign pointing me to the hut. How many more have rejoiced at this sight! I was so beaten up but it was easy going for the rest of the walk to the hut.

I let a few others into the hut that evening to share the fire. Nothing special happened.

But today I am glad it is all over. I believe in myself now -- this has got to be some of the worst forest trails in the whole trail, and if I did them fine then I must be able to complete whatever lies ahead.

Thoughts

If you read anywhere about Raetae Forest they will tell you it's pretty brutal, and if you're reading some Te Araroa blog then they will say something along the lines of "if you can do this, you can do anything after this". Well that's just testament to how completely mad the conditions in there are. I even heard from a local that they train the SAS in there (don't quote me on this).

However I would just like to say that this is definitely not the hardest section, though it might be the dirtiest.

The mud is caused partly by the altitude which causes high volumes of rain at the top, coupled with erosion. I was pretty safe from it though, my gaiters + boots were effectively mudproof so although I just bulldozed through all the mud patches my socks were still clean and dry at the end.

Also met quite a few hikers here, but they were of the ultralight species so they blazed past. Ha, these poorly equipped scouts, meet the triarii!

It is also true that these forests are the worst on the trail, at least according to me. They might not be the most physically demanding (although they do require a decent level of fitness), but the conditions are definitely the most depressing. You will never get this wet and dirty anywhere else.